Small rocket, great for testing out the techniques used with Model Minutes rockets. For use with 18mm model rocket motors A through B (when built with 110lb cardstock).

Let's get started:

Select the image to be printed. This will link to a PDF file. Print the page on a cardstock, ideally 110lb or heavier. If you're planning on painting, avoid using cardstock designed for inkjets, as some types might swell when painted. As an alternative it can be decorated with felt-tip pens.

PRINTING CAUTION: Print a test page on regular paper to ensure that the 1 inch gauge mark measures 1 inch on your print out. If not, modify your printer parameters to obtain.

Before starting read ALL the INSTRUCTIONS.

Supplies Needed:

• Use a transparent glue. Mod Podge Paper with a small brush works well.
• Non-Drying Modeler's Clay
• Small square of 1/4" Foamboard
• Small eye-screw with 1/2" long threads
• Small plastic bag (or left over 8" plastic parachute)
• 60" Thin string
• 12-18" rubber band or 1/8" elastic
• 1" length of a drinking straw, at least 1/8" in diameter

Tube

Trace dotted lines with a wood point or a hard pencil. This makes a slight depression in the paper to make sharper, straighter folds. These dotted lines are for the folds of the body tube.

Fold the tube in to form a hexagon.

Place it flat on a surface with the glue strip on the upward side facing you.

Place a strip of wax paper into the body tube. When gluing, you will apply pressure which will flatten out the tube. The wax paper prevents the glue joint from sticking to the other side. The tube will be re-formed later.

Spread some glue on the glue strip and spread it thin with your finger.

Trick of Pros: Using your finger, practically wipe off all of the glue. The part to be glued should hardly be wet. Then stick together and support the parts with strong pressure. With practice the parts should stick together nearly instantly.

Support firmly with your fingers or a ruler until stuck in place. Set aside to dry. When dry, remove the wax paper and re-form the tube.

Nose Cone

Cut out and to trace the dotted lines of the cone with a wood point or a hard pencil.

Fold the nose cone as shown.

Apply glue to the glue strip and stick in place.

Coat the inside of the nose cone with glue.

Form some non-drying modeling clay into a pointed shape, approximately the same size as the nose cone. Push the clay into the nose cone supporting the shape with your fingers.

Fold the glue tabs to a 90 degree angle, apply glue and glue the nose cone cap in place.

Place C2 template on some 1/4" foamboard, trace, and cut out . This will form the nose cone shoulder.

Glue the foamboard to the bottom of the nose cone.

Apply glue to the threads of a small eye-screw and screw it into the center of the foamboard. The length of the threads should be at least 1/2" long.

Fins

Cut out the fins. Optionally, cut out the center window if you would like to add color transparent plastic inserts.

Trace a line between the color and black tab with a wood point or a hard pencil.

Optional: Glue a piece of colored or clear transparent plastic into the fin.

Apply glue to the inside, spread thin with your finger and fold over the fin. Put the fin between wax paper and place into a book. Make sure the glue tabs are folder outward and do not get glued together.

Parachute

Cut out a 8" hexagon from a sheet of polyethylene, thinnest possible (e.g. a kitchen trash bag).

Use some household string (thin nylon is preferred) and cut three lengths of 20" long. Tie a knot in each end of the three pieces of string.

Cut out six pieces of masking tape, 1/2" by 1/2".

Place the knot onto the masking tape and stick to a corner of the parachute. Stick the knot on the opposite end of the string just attached to another piece of masking tape and stick to the next corner on the parachute. Repeat for the other two strings.

Hold the parachute by its center and pull the three strings even to form a loop.

Thread the loop through the eye-screw hole on the nose cone.

Push the parachute through the loop and tighten to attach the parachute to the nose cone.

Tie a long rubber band or a piece of 1/8" elastic shock cord to the eye-screw.

Final Assembly

Apply glue to the inside of the fin tabs, spread thin with your finger, and glue to the tube. (the positions are indicated on the tube).

Glue all three into place.

Cut a 4" long by 1/4" wide piece of cardstock. Roll this piece of cardstock into a roll until it fits into the body tube. Hold it firm and remove it. With a pencil, mark the outside where the paper ends. Also mark the inside where the paper starts. Unroll. Place glue from the mark on the inside to the end of the paper. Roll back up until the end matches the outside mark.

Make a ring of glue on the inside of the body tube, 2" from the end. Hint: Place a piece of tape on your paintbrush to indicate the proper depth.

Insert the ring using a spent (used) engine or a tube into the body tube 2 1/2". Remove the engine immediately.

Glue and fold up L1 twice on the end of the rubber band or 1/8" elastic. Insert and glue to the inside of the tube at least 1" depth. Let dry completely.

Insert the parachute and place the nose cone in place. Ensure that the nose cone and the parachute come out easily.

Launch Lug

Cut out the 4" long by 1" wide piece of cardstock marked launch lug. Coat the back of this with glue and wrap around the 1" piece of drinking draw. Glue this to the body tube between two fins and so that the half-way point matches the top of the fin (see upper-right picture).

Swing Test

Always perform a swing test on your Tricarrow prior to flying for the first time with a B4-4 loaded.

Fly the Tricarrow on A8-3's or B4-4's. Larger thrust motors are not recommended.

It's Your Responsibility to Fly Safely
National Association of Rocketry's Model Rocket Safety Code

EMRR Review
Note: The review was written prior to Model Minutes US. The instructions have been reviewed and corrected to address translation issues.